Tag: Gift

Sloth Plush Dress

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I have long been meaning to post a tutorial on how to make a dress for the Sloth plush, but it always seemed to slip my mind. A special thanks to Carol for reminding me about it! The dress is a cute little addition to the sloth plush and a lot of fun to make.

I don’t have a video for this one, but I do have several photos. I hope you find them helpful.

That said, let’s get down to business!

sloth-dress-pattern-learncreatesewDownload

Here are some quick instructions on how to make the dress.

First, cut out the pieces. The skirt rectangle is approximately 3 x 18 inches, but you can adjust that as desired.

Hem the bottom and two sides of the skirt with a double-fold narrow hem. Approximately, 1/4 inch wide.

Gather the top edge.

Pin two of the bodice front pieces to a bodice back piece, right sides together. Align the dashes marked on the pattern.

Stitch the side seams with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Only sew above and below the dashes, leaving a gap in the middle. This is for the sloth’s arms to pass through.

Repeat this process again for the other front and back pieces. You should end up with two identical dress bodices. Press the side seams open on both bodices.

Fold up the bottom edge of one of the bodices 3/8 inch. Press. Keep the bottom edge of the other flat.

Lay the bodice with the bottom edge flat (the one you did not press) right side up. Place the skirt right side down on top of it. Align the gathered edge of the skirt with the raw edge of the bodice. Let the bodice extend an extra 1/4 inch on each side beyond the skirt. Stitch the skirt in place along the gathered edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Flip the skirt down and press the seam allowance toward the bodice.

Place the dress right side up. (You can disregard the topstitching shown on the bodice in the photo. It’s not necessary in this step. We will get to that later.)

Lay the other bodice, the one with the folded bottom edge, right side down on top of the dress. Align seams and edges of the bodice pieces. Make sure the seams are open and flat. Sew all of the way around the edge of the bodice with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, everywhere except the bottom edge where the skirt is attached, that will stay open. (None of your stitches should be on the skirt section. Only the bodice fabric is being stitched.)

Clip the curves and corners.

Flip the bodice right side out and press. Carefully align the bottom edge of the folded bodice so it covers the gathers and hides the seam allowance on the inside. The folded bodice edge should extend about 1/8 inch below the stitch line of the skirt. Flip it over. Pin in place as needed. From the front side, topstitch along the bottom of the bodice edge (more detailed photos below) and then press again. The skirt will now be sandwiched between the two bodice layers.

I usually topstitch with a 1/8 inch seam allowance.

Notice there is an opening for the arm hole.

Topstitch around the slit with a 1/8 inch seam allowance.

Add decorative ribbon, buttons, or trim if you like.

Try the dress on your sloth and then attach a closure. Velcro, buttons, and snaps all work great.

And your dress is done!

Happy Sewing!

(FYI, the shoulder seams were done differently in this picture. I still love the dress but prefer the technique described above.)

Sew Easy Gift Bags

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I am happy to share my latest project with you today! These are quick and easy drawstring gift bags.

I made mine quite small, but you can easily adjust the size. These are great for scrap fabric projects and are perfect for the holidays! They are also fun for beginning sewers.

There are two style options available, flat or standing. The standing bag has boxed corners.

Supplies:

  • 1/3 yard (or more) fabric or scrap fabric – (The process is easier if you select a fabric that can be ironed)
  • 1 1/2 yards (or more) of 1/4 inch wide ribbon
  • Coordinating Thread
  • Fray Check (Optional)

Tools:

  • Sewing Machine
  • Iron
  • Fabric Marking Tool (a pencil often works)
  • Ruler
  • Safety pin
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Seam Roll (Optional)

Free Pattern & Custom Sizing Information:

small-gift-bag-pattern-and-custom-sizing-infoDownload

Quick Overview:

Detailed Instructions:

Happy Sewing!

Fur Pom Poms

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With all of the stress of this year weighing heavy, I decided to take up a new hobby to help myself relax. I decided to learn how to crochet! I had crocheted before, but it had been several years. My mom came to visit with her assortment of crochet projects and I just couldn’t stop myself from exploring the craft again.

One of the first projects I made were these Half Double Crochet Beanies. These were simple and quick and a lot of fun. But they were definitely missing something…the fur pom pom! Hence this tutorial.

I thought I would share with you how I made the pom poms for the top of the beanies.

All it takes is faux fur fabric, poly-fil, needle and thread.

I think it adds a lot of character to the beanies! These pom poms have long ties that can be used to attach the pom poms to any project you like.

SUPPLIES:

  • Button thread
  • Faux Fur fabric (8 inch square or less)
  • Poly-fil stuffing

FREE PATTERN:

fur-pom-pom-pattern-learncreatesewDownload

QUICK OVERVIEW:

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

How I made the Beanie…

CROCHET PATTERN:

YARN: Serenity Premier Chunky – Weight 5

Hook: 7.0 – 9.0 

     A larger hook will require fewer stitches, but they will be more spaced out.

     I used hook 7.0 for the burgundy beanie and 9.0 for the black beanie.

Size: Teen/Adult

Terms:      Ch – Chain             

                 BLO – Back Loop Only

Hdc – Half Double Crochet

Chain 34 – 42

     The number of chain stitches you need will vary depending on the size of the hook you selected.

     You want your chain to be 11 – 14 inches long, not including the chain 2 at the end.

     Mine (the burgundy beanie) was 12 inches long. I chained 36 stitches and measured stitches 1 – 34.

Leave the thread tail long.

Row 1 – Beginning in the 3rd chain from the hook Hdc in each stitch. Hdc in back loop only. [Total Stitches: 32-40]

     The total number of stitches should be 2 less than your chain.

     Check the length again after completing row 1. You want your row 1 to be 11 – 14 inches long.

      Mine was 12 inches long and I had 34 total stitches.

      You should have the SAME number of stitches in every row from now on.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, Hdc BLO in each stitch [32 – 40]  

     Don’t forget to skip the turning chain when you begin your stitches.

Row 3+: Repeat Row 2 until your work is 17 – 20 inches wide. 

You can test the width by wrapping the beanie around your head. It should be about two inches or so shorter than the circumference of your head.

Mine ended up being 12 x 19 inches. (The circumference of my head is 21 inches). Since this is a large yarn and a big hook it will stretch.

A smaller width will give a more snug fit.

STOP ON AN EVEN NUMBER OF ROWS.

Your working yarn should be on the opposite end from your starting tail. Cut the working yarn to be about 1 yard long.

Fold the beanie in half with wrong sides together. Sew the edge together. You should end with the working yarn next to your original thread tail. This will be the top of the beanie. Tie the thread tails in a knot.

Stitch through all the raised stitches around the top edge and pull closed. Tie in a secure knot. Weave in the thread tails.

And then add your fur pom pom!

Happy Sewing…and Crochet!

Hand Sanitizer / Lip Gloss Key Chain

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I am so happy with this project!

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I have been wanting to make a lip gloss key chain for a while and finally had the chance to do so. I LOVE IT! They turned out just the right size 🙂 I was very pleased.

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Once I had the lip gloss version done I was very happy to find a similar size spray bottle that works perfectly for liquid hand sanitizers! It would be awesome for perfume as well.

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Once I had this key chain ready, I couldn’t resist making another size for larger hand sanitizer bottles. This works great for many 1 oz flip top bottles that usually hold gel hand sanitizers.

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Since this project is so small, I used my purple thang a ton while sewing.

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I used them for the first time today and I already love them. Perfect to add to your key ring or purse. These are also super cute as gifts! And since they don’t take much fabric, they are very affordable.

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Supplies

1 key ring

2.5 inches of 1/4 inch elastic (for wide version)

6 x 10 inches of cotton fabric (or scrap fabric)

Here is the free pattern:

Lip Gloss Hand Sanitizer Key Chain Pattern by learncreatesew

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

QUICK OVERVIEW (FLAT POCKET):

QUICK OVERVIEW (ELASTIC POCKET):

Scrunchies with Removable Ties

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One of the projects that my students request to make most frequently is scrunchies! They are quick, easy, and don’t take a lot of fabric.

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You can use a variety of fabrics to make scrunchies, so it’s a great way to use the fabric in your scrap bin. Scrunchies are great in cotton, flannel, velvet, satin, and more.

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You can mix and match removable ties to add a bit of flare to your scrunchies.

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Scrunchies only take a few minutes to make and even beginning sewers can be successful with this project.

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You can make the scrunchies without the ties if you prefer.

Here is the pattern for the removable ties!

Scrunchie Tie Pattern by learncreatesew

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

QUICK OVERVIEW:

Rag Doll Part 2 – Adding the Hair

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Here is the second installment of my rag doll tutorial. This was by far one of the most difficult videos I have made. Not because the process is hard, but because there are so many different styles of hair that can be selected and so many methods with which it can be applied.

I spent a lot of time deciding what I would share because I didn’t want anyone to feel limited in the approach they had to use. Not to mention, there was a whole lot of yarn that did not want to cooperate and stay in place while filming! Apparently it does not take direction well.

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I really enjoyed using multi-colored hair on this doll. Mixing and matching colors strand by strand was a lot of fun, and I really like the look it created.

On the above doll the majority if her hair is the dark purple color. The wefts added at the bottom were all the same color, however at the top, I added just a bit of contrast.

I hope that you can take the methods used in this video and expand upon them to make something all your own 🙂

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I love the drastically different looks you can create by altering hair styles and color.

Here is my rag doll pattern in case you missed it in the last post. The doll is just over 14 inches tall when completed.

Rag Doll Pattern by learncreatesew

ADDING THE HAIR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

Rag Doll Part 1 – Constructing the Body

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I have finished my rag doll pattern! I’ve been working hard to create the instructional videos and I am happy to say that I have the body instructions ready to share with you today.

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I really enjoyed working on this project and mixing and matching fabrics to create the body of the doll.

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I love all of the different styles you can design to make the doll uniquely your own!

This project is a bit more time consuming than others and does require a bit of patience. It is probably a 5/10 in difficulty just for the amount of time needed to hand stitch the hair and for the exactness of seam allowance that is needed. When sewing plush projects, a small error in your seam allowance can make a big difference in the appearance of your doll. You also need to be comfortable slip stitching and working with small curves.

The doll measures between 14 and 14.5 inches tall when finished.

Rag Doll Pattern by learncreatesew

Rag Doll Hair Tutorial COMING SOON!

Free Fleece Slipper Pattern – Adjustable Sizing

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I know this project is a little unexpected. I wasn’t planning to make fleece slippers. The idea has been sitting around in the back of my head for a while, but I hadn’t had great success in making a pattern that worked for me.

Thank goodness this week my mom came to stay with me 🙂 The subject of slippers came up and since she wanted to make slippers it got me started on this project again, and I am very pleased with how it turned out!

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We just wanted a simple fleece slipper. Something casual and easy to make.

Of course, then we had to make them cute and add decorations!

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Flowers were the first addition 🙂

We also played with contrasting binding. My mom made this cute pair with purple binding.

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After cuteness, we moved on to comfort. The first addition for comfort was two layers of fleece for the base! My mom’s brilliant idea! This really made a difference. It made the side seams less noticeable, hid all raw edges, and added a layer of cushion as well.

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We also found that each of us preferred a different style of slipper. While my mom loves the classic snug fit with a lot of coverage, I found that the high opening wasn’t what I was used to.

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So, we altered the pattern. We decided to add a second style, ballerina fit, with a larger opening and longer band. We then added an optional mary jane strap, just for cuteness.

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In the end, while we hadn’t planned to spend several days making slippers, it was totally worth it. We both love our homemade slippers!

The project is fairly easy. You just need to be comfortable working with fleece and using a zigzag stitch.

The pattern is a woman’s size 7 but can be adjusted slightly for other women’s sizes.

Fleece Slipper Pattern Letter Size by learncreatesew

Fleece Slipper Pattern BALLERINA Letter Size by learncreatesew

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

QUICK OVERVIEW:

Also! A special thanks to my mom for being my photographer and pattern tester for this project!