Category: Beginning Sewing

Centered Zippers & the Sewing Sample Dictionary!

Leave a comment

I recently took a college sewing class and absolutely loved the way the instructor taught the course. We kept all of our practice samples neatly organized in a binder so we could refer to them in the future! It was so helpful!

As a result, I decided to create my own Sewing Sample Dictionary. A reference book to help me organize my sewing samples.

To make your own Sewing Sample Dictionary, print out the templates and instructions for each sample.

Follow along on with the instructional video to create your sample. Then, use sheet protectors and a 3-ring binder to store your samples.

COVER:

sewing-sample-dictionary-coverDownload

The Centered Zipper Sample is my first addition to the Dictionary!

Tools:

  • Sewing Machine
  • Zipper Foot
  • Basic Sewing Supplies
  • Hand Needle and Thread
  • Fabric Marking Tool (I use air erase markers)
  • Grid Ruler
  • Seam Ripper
  • Iron
  • Sewing Stiletto or Purple Thang (The wrong edge of your seam ripper will also work)
  • Serger (Optional)
  • 3-Ring Binder (For Sewing Sample Dictionary – Optional)
  • Sheet Protectors (For – Sewing Sample Dictionary – Optional)

Centered zippers are one of the most common zipper applications. They are quick and simple after a bit of practice. There are a lot of different techniques out there, but this is my favorite!

Do you always end up with wobbly stitches or horrible backstitching around the zipper pull? Have to redo your zipper over and over before it actually looks nice? Never again! With a few simple techniques, your zipper can look great the first time!

To make this sample I used two rectangles of fabric. Each measured 4.25 x 7.5 inches. I also used a 5-inch nylon coil zipper. (NOTE: If you don’t use a nylon coil zipper you cannot sew over the teeth as shown in the video.)

Place the fabric right sides together and sew a 5/8 inch seam allowance using two different stitch lengths. The upper stitch length will be 5.0 (basting stitches) so they can be removed later. The bottom section will be stitch length 2.5 as they will remain. The transition point is where the zipper’s opening will stop and the seam will begin.

Press the seam flat to set the stitches. Then, press the seam open. Serge the edges to finish. Serging is optional but very much recommended if the zipper will be in an unlined garment.

Turn the fabric right side up, and draw your stitch line. This will be three sides of a rectangle. Draw a line 1/4 inch to the left and right of your seam. Start at the top edge and stop where your stitches change length. Connect the two at the bottom.

Now, we will attach the zipper.

Turn the fabric right side down and place the zipper right side down on top of it. Make sure to leave enough room at the top for seam allowance. I usually place my zipper so the top stops are 7/8 of an inch from the top edge.

Hand-baste the zipper in place along the edges. The basting stitch should not be on your drawn line as it will make them difficult to remove later. It is tempting to skip this step, but I highly recommend that you don’t. It only takes a minute and it really improves the quality of your zipper application. It also provides a greater chance of success the first time!

From the right side, sew the zipper in place by stitching exactly on your draw line. Make sure your zipper foot is on your machine. Use stitch length 2.5 or whatever is appropriate for your fabric. Be sure to use a sewing stiletto or purple thang to move the zipper pull out of the path of the stitch line when you sew. You do not what to hit it! If you don’t have a sewing stiletto the back edge of your seam ripper works great as well, just take care not to accidentally cut your fabric.

Remove the hand basting stitches as well as the machine basting stitches (length 5.0).

And you are finished!

Now all you have to do is add the zipper to your Sewing Sample Dictionary!

Centered Zipper Sewing Sample Dictionary Template:

SSD Template centered-zipperDownload

Centered Zipper Sample Pattern:

centered-zipper-sample-pattern-learncreatesewDownload

Quick Overview:

Detailed Instructions:

What to add more to your Sewing Sample Dictionary? Here is some more information on zippers!

Zippers are used absolutely everywhere! Once you start sewing with zippers, it is important to know what all of the bits and pieces are called. Zippers can be intimidating to the new sewer. Being familiar with the components and terminology will help clarify sewing instructions and patterns and make them easier to use.

Sewing Sample Dictionary Template:

SSD Template anatomy-of-a-zipperDownload

Printable Diagrams:

ssd-anatamy-of-a-zipper-diagram-bwDownload
ssd-anatamy-of-a-zipper-diagram-colorDownload

Instructional Video:

Happy Sewing!

Bias, Continuous Bias Binding, and Grainlines

Leave a comment

For many projects, a bit of coordinating bias binding can make a huge difference in overall quality and appearance. It can be tempting to just grab a package of premade binding from the store, but it is SO nice when it actually matches your project! The process of making your own can seem a bit strange at first, but once you get the hang of it can go pretty quickly.

Bias binding needs to stretch to mold around curves and edges. As a result, the binding has to be cut in the correct direction. Being familiar with the different grainlines of a woven fabric is very helpful. (See the video below for more information on fabric grainlines.)

Cut a square or rectangle of fabric. You then want to identify these grainlines on your fabric. I often use scrap fabric to make bias binding. (See the video below for how to identify the grainlines on your scrap fabric.) Most commonly, I use a fat quarter, but if I only need a little I have used squares as small as 10 x 10 inches.

Mark the bias line and cut along the line.

With the right sides together, sew the two pieces together along the lengthwise grainline.

Press the seam flat and then open. The seam is going in the same direction as the lengthwise grain. This means that the bias is at a 45-degree angle to the seam.

Turn the fabric so the bias edge is now on the bottom.

Draw lines parallel to the bias edge. The lines shown below were drawn 1 inch apart. This separating distance will be the width of your bias strips. You can make them wider, or more narrow depending on what you need for your fabric. A narrower strip will yield more yardage than a wide one. The rectangle below, which was 10 x 14 inches, provided about 3 yards of 1-inch wide bias strips.

Mark a 1/4 inch seam allowance on each side (following the cross-grain edges). Fold the fabric so it is right sides together. Offsetting the fabric by one strip, align the intersection points. See the instructional videos below for more details.

Stitch along the 1/4 inch drawn seam line (cross-grain) and press the seam open.

Cut along the lines to create a long continuous bias strip.

If needed, you can then fold the two raw edges to the center and press. This step is easier if you use a bias tape maker to help you. I am using a 12mm bias tape maker for my 1-inch strip.

Tools/Supplies:

  • Woven Fabric – Fat Quarter or Scrap fabric (recommend no smaller than 10 x 10)
  • Coordinating thread
  • Iron
  • Grid ruler
  • Precise fabric marking tool or sharp pencil
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Sewing Machine
  • Bias Tape Maker – half the width of your strip (optional)

The Grainlines of Woven Fabric: Lengthwise Grain, Cross Grain, and Bias

Identifying Grainlines on Scrap Fabric – (This clip is Included in the detailed instructions for bias binding video.)

Making Continuous Bias Binding Quick Overview:

Continuous Bias Binding from Scrap Fabric Detailed Instructions:

Happy Sewing!

Classroom Window Curtain

Leave a comment

I was recently asked to help with a service project at our school. Parent volunteers are making curtains for all the classroom windows! They are going to be so nice!

Our school will be attaching the curtains to the door using velcro. If your school isn’t doing that you can use magnets, or ribbon loops with 3M hooks instead.

There are two magnets at the base of the curtain which will help it stay in place when in use. If you don’t want the magnets to be visible on the outside of the curtain, select a darker fabric print.

A ribbon and button will hold up the curtain when it is not being used.

This is a quick and easy project and can usually be completed in 15 – 30 minutes.

Supplies:

  • 3/4 yard of cotton fabric (this is enough fabric for two curtains)
  • 1/2 yard ribbon (1/4 inch wide) – (You will need more if you plan to attach the curtain using loops)
  • One Button (3/4 – 1 inch wide)
  • Sew-on Velcro (Loop side only – Approximately 1/4 yard)
  • Two Magnets (18mm) – (I needed 6 magnets to attach the curtain to the frame without the velcro)
  • Coordinating thread

Tools

  • Sewing Machine
  • Ruler
  • Fabric Marking Tool
  • Zipper foot (optional, but may be necessary on some machines)
  • Basic Sewing supplies (pins, scissors, etc.)

Quick Overview:

Detailed Instructions:

Happy Sewing!

Sew Easy Gift Bags

2 Comments

I am happy to share my latest project with you today! These are quick and easy drawstring gift bags.

I made mine quite small, but you can easily adjust the size. These are great for scrap fabric projects and are perfect for the holidays! They are also fun for beginning sewers.

There are two style options available, flat or standing. The standing bag has boxed corners.

Supplies:

  • 1/3 yard (or more) fabric or scrap fabric – (The process is easier if you select a fabric that can be ironed)
  • 1 1/2 yards (or more) of 1/4 inch wide ribbon
  • Coordinating Thread
  • Fray Check (Optional)

Tools:

  • Sewing Machine
  • Iron
  • Fabric Marking Tool (a pencil often works)
  • Ruler
  • Safety pin
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Seam Roll (Optional)

Free Pattern & Custom Sizing Information:

small-gift-bag-pattern-and-custom-sizing-infoDownload

Quick Overview:

Detailed Instructions:

Happy Sewing!

Zipper Pocket

2 Comments

I have been making a lot of bags lately and one feature that I use almost all of the time is a zippered pocket.

These are super cute and convenient on both the inside and outside of the bag!

To create a zipper pocket you need one zipper, fabric for the pocket, and the fabric panel (either lining or exterior fabric) where you want the zipper to be placed. You begin by placing them fabric pieces right sides together. You then sketch a rectangle for the zipper window on the wrong side of the pocket fabric. I like to make the zipper window at least 1 inch below the top edge of the pocket fabric and at least 1 inch from each side. I also like to make the window 3/8 inch tall. (You may need a taller rectangle if you are using a zipper with larger zipper teeth.

You then stitch EXACTLY on the rectangle. This is super important! For years when I tried making a zipper pocket it always looked sloppy because I wasn’t careful about stitching the rectangle. To help myself be more precise I now use stitch length 2.0. I also slow down as I approach the corners and make sure I pivot with a 90 degree angle. Another trick that helps is to count the number of stitches you use to show the first short side and use the same number of stitches on the other short side. This will help make a nice even rectangle.

TIP: If you accidentally stitch too far, or mess up, I recommend taking the time to go back and fix it. It makes a big difference. Avoid simply backstitching to correct the error if you go too far. This actually makes the pocket harder to turn and it won’t lie flat in the end.

Next, you will clip the center of the window. Cut a line horizontally down the center of the box. About 1 cm from each end angle off to the corners. Clip very close to the stitches but be sure not to actually cut the thread!

Before I turn my fabric I really like to press. I find this helps the fabric to lay flatter and creates a better rectangle.

I fold the pocket fabric down along the top of the row of stitches of the rectangle and press. Then I do the same, lifting the pocket fabric up and pressing on along the bottom edge of the rectangle. And repeat for the left and right. It helps SO much!!!!

Then after pressing, I turn the pocket fabric through the opening, shaping the rectangle and press. I like to press from both the pocket side and the main fabric side.

TIP: Using a tailors clapper to help press is also really nice! It helps trap in the heat and set the folds.

Finally, you are ready to add the zipper! Simply lay the zipper right side up and place the window you created right side up on top of it. You can use pins, fabric glue, or double sided wash away tape to hold the zipper in place. Then stitch around the rectangle with a 1/16 – 1/8 inch seam allowance.

TIP: Before you start sewing make sure you know where the metal stoppers for your zipper are placed. You don’t want to accidentally stitch on one. It could cause damage to your tools and./or injury.

Once the zipper is attached it’s time to make the pocket! Simply fold the bottom of the pocket fabric up so that it touches the top of the pocket fabric, with right sides together. Pin around the edges (of just the pocket fabric) and sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You will have to move the main fabric out of the way as you do this.

And the pocket is finished!

Below are video instructions for how to create the zipper pocket! There is both a Quick Overview and Detailed Instructions.

QUICK OVERVIEW:

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

Happy Sewing!

Pleats

Leave a comment

Pleats create fullness to your fabric and are a good alternative to gathering. Instead of scrunching up the fabric along the stitch line, you simply create folds.

Pleats can be a lot easier than gathering. They are quick and lie really flat. However, you do have to make sure they are consistently sized and placed, and that can be the tricky part. Often times patterns will have pleat placement guides which indicate the size and position of the pleats! This is really nice and takes out the guess work of pleating. So, as we practice how to make pleats we will use placement guides.

Free Pleating Guide Samples:

pleat-sample-guides-by-learncreatesewDownload

If you don’t want to make the pleats by hand you can use a Ruffler foot on your machine. They can be a bit tricky to use at first, but are a great option if you are planning to pleat anything that is really long such as the edging of a pillow, etc.

To create pleats you need two guide-marks, where the pleat starts and where it stops. In the first sample I marked this guidelines with sharpie to make them super obvious (NOT what I would do on an actual project!), but you could do something similar with fabric markers or chalk, something that will wash away.

You can also use pins of different colors as guide-marks. In the second sample, I used green pins to represent the start of the pleat and red pins to indicate the stopping point.

When you pleat, you fold the fabric at the starting point and bring it over to meet the stopping point mark, hiding the fabric between the two marks and following the direction of the arrow.

There are many many ways pleats can be arranged. Common placements include pleats all going the same direction, half going one way and half the other, or two pleats that meet at the same point going in opposite directions. Just be sure to look at your pattern or guide for the correct direction and placement.

Here’s what that process looks like with pins instead of marks.

When sewing pleats in place it is important that they remain flat. As a result, I like to use a sewing tool to hold them in place while I sew. My favorite tool to use is That Purple Thang, but a sewing stiletto or the back edge of your seam ripper also works. Just remember to stay safe and keep your fingers clear of the needle, a sewing tool helps ensure that and protects your fingers.

When you are done sewing, pressing is really helpful! You can press just in the seam allowance, all the way to the bottom of the fabric, or somewhere in the middle depending on your preference or the directions in your pattern. If your fabric is really thick, or composed of multiple layers, it may also be helpful to press before sewing. Just be careful not to press your pins 🙂

In the end, pleats are a quick fun way to add detail and decoration to a project!

Free Pleating Guide Samples:

pleat-sample-guides-by-learncreatesewDownload

SKILL BUILDING VIDEO:

Happy Sewing!

Gathering

2 Comments

Gathering can be found in many sewing projects and is used in everything from basic crafts to garment construction.

There are several different ways to gather, but my favorite way is using two rows of stitches.

TIP: USE TWO ROWS OF STITCHES

Creating your gathers with two rows of stitches provides a safety net, just in case the worst happens and a gathering thread breaks. It may save you from having to start all over again. The two rows also helps the fabric to lay flatter. This is a plus when you need to sew the gathered fabric to something else.

When sewing gathering stitches always use a long stitch length. The longest stitch length on your machine is usually best and can range anywhere from 4.0 – 7.0. I find 5.0 – 6.0 is usually my go to stitch length for gathering. The thicker your fabric, the longer the stitch length needed.

The two rows are stitched with a gap between them. I find it most successful when I use a 1/4 and 1/2 inch seam allowance for the gathering stitches. This leaves a wide 1/4 inch gap and provides a little bit of leeway for small errors in the seam allowances size. (If the rows of stitching get too close together it may stop the fabric from sliding along the threads.)

When you gather you do not backstitch (this would create a knot) and you leave the thread tails long.

TIP: SLIDE DON’T PULL

To create gathers we hold the two bobbin threads and slide the fabric. Our instinct when gathering is to pull the threads to create the gathers, and if that doesn’t work, we pull harder. Uh oh…then you hear it…snap! The thread breaks. This is a particularly dreadful noise when you are gathering, especially if it is something large. Having the two rows of stitching instead of one could save you, but not always.

So, instead don’t pull…slide. Simply hold the thread tails in place and slide the fabric along. See the video below for what to do when it won’t slide anymore! Pulling the threads isn’t the answer, as there is too much of a chance of that thread breaking. But if you remember….slide, slide, slide! It helps 🙂

TIP: USE TWO DIFFERENT COLORS OF THREAD

When you are just learning how to gather, identifying the correct threads to hold can be tricky. If you thread your bobbin and top thread with two different colors it makes it super easy to find the threads you are looking for! The bobbin threads become obvious and you won’t make the mistake of holding the wrong pair of threads. I used yellow thread for my main spool, and blue thread in the bobbin.

TIP: GATHER FROM BOTH SIDES

Sometimes when we are on a roll and gathering quickly we accidentally slide our fabric off of the threads entirely! At that point, there is nothing to do but begin again. To avoid this, gather half of the fabric from the left, and half from the right, so there is no danger of sliding the fabric too far.

See the video below for a detailed tutorial on basic gathers!

SKILL BUILDING VIDEO:

Happy Sewing!

One Hour Easy Zippered Purse

Leave a comment

I absolutely love the project I am sharing with you today! I few years ago I was rushing to get ready for a vacation and my purse would NOT fit in my bag. I had one hour before I had to leave for the airport. What was I going to do? Well, being me, I decided to sew a new purse!

This is what I came up with! And since then I have used this purse absolutely all the time.

This purse is very lightweight and super handy to have around. I love to use this when I travel so I can fold it up in my luggage. I also really like to use it when I go for walks. It is the perfect size for a cell phone and smaller items.

This is a great first zipper project, so if you are just beginning with zippers this is a great place to start because you don’t have to worry about linings. Since the purse doesn’t have a lining it can be made quickly and simplifies the project. This is definitely a casual bag and I have enjoyed making this using both cotton and flannel fabrics.

Free Cut Layouts are available for two different styles, narrow and wide.

The black confetti purse is the wide version, and the cotton print is narrow.

Once you are comfortable with the process of how it is constructed it is super easy to adapt. By changing the length and width of your rectangles you can change the size of the bag. You can also use the same process to increase the number of zippers! I love the look with 3 zippers!

The wide bag measures approximately 7.375 x 9.5 inches and the narrow bag is approximately 6.375 x 9 inches.

SUPPLIES:

  • 2/3 yard cotton or flannel fabric (Makes 2 if the fabric is at least 40 inches wide)
  • Two – Three 9 inch zippers (for each purse)
  • Coordinating thread
  • Fray Check (Optional)

Tools

  • Sewing Machine
  • Basic Sewing Tools (Pins, scissors, etc.)
  • Ruler and marking tool (to draw the rectangles from the cut layout)
  • Iron

Free Cut Layouts:

2-zipper-cut-layouts-by-learncreatesewDownload
3-zipper-cut-layouts-by-learncreatesew-1Download

DETAILED VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS:

QUICK OVERVIEW:

Happy Sewing!

Pocket Rice Bags

3 Comments

I love these little rice bags! They are super quick, great for beginners, and are an awesome way to use that pile of scrap fabric that’s lying around.

I prefer to use flannel for my rice bags. I love the soft texture. You want to make sure to select a fabric that can be ironed.

These bags are stitched twice, which adds a cute little border around the edges.

I like to make my rice bags in pairs, creating a set of two. Great for each pocket!

SUPPLIES:

  • Flannel or cotton fabric ( 1/8 yard or Scraps – two 4.25 inch squares needed for each rice bag)
  • Rice
  • Coordinating Thread

FREE PATTERN:

pocket-rice-bag-pattern-by-learncreatesewDownload

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS VIDEO:

Happy Sewing!

Fur Pom Poms

Leave a comment

With all of the stress of this year weighing heavy, I decided to take up a new hobby to help myself relax. I decided to learn how to crochet! I had crocheted before, but it had been several years. My mom came to visit with her assortment of crochet projects and I just couldn’t stop myself from exploring the craft again.

One of the first projects I made were these Half Double Crochet Beanies. These were simple and quick and a lot of fun. But they were definitely missing something…the fur pom pom! Hence this tutorial.

I thought I would share with you how I made the pom poms for the top of the beanies.

All it takes is faux fur fabric, poly-fil, needle and thread.

I think it adds a lot of character to the beanies! These pom poms have long ties that can be used to attach the pom poms to any project you like.

SUPPLIES:

  • Button thread
  • Faux Fur fabric (8 inch square or less)
  • Poly-fil stuffing

FREE PATTERN:

fur-pom-pom-pattern-learncreatesewDownload

QUICK OVERVIEW:

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:

How I made the Beanie…

CROCHET PATTERN:

YARN: Serenity Premier Chunky – Weight 5

Hook: 7.0 – 9.0 

     A larger hook will require fewer stitches, but they will be more spaced out.

     I used hook 7.0 for the burgundy beanie and 9.0 for the black beanie.

Size: Teen/Adult

Terms:      Ch – Chain             

                 BLO – Back Loop Only

Hdc – Half Double Crochet

Chain 34 – 42

     The number of chain stitches you need will vary depending on the size of the hook you selected.

     You want your chain to be 11 – 14 inches long, not including the chain 2 at the end.

     Mine (the burgundy beanie) was 12 inches long. I chained 36 stitches and measured stitches 1 – 34.

Leave the thread tail long.

Row 1 – Beginning in the 3rd chain from the hook Hdc in each stitch. Hdc in back loop only. [Total Stitches: 32-40]

     The total number of stitches should be 2 less than your chain.

     Check the length again after completing row 1. You want your row 1 to be 11 – 14 inches long.

      Mine was 12 inches long and I had 34 total stitches.

      You should have the SAME number of stitches in every row from now on.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, Hdc BLO in each stitch [32 – 40]  

     Don’t forget to skip the turning chain when you begin your stitches.

Row 3+: Repeat Row 2 until your work is 17 – 20 inches wide. 

You can test the width by wrapping the beanie around your head. It should be about two inches or so shorter than the circumference of your head.

Mine ended up being 12 x 19 inches. (The circumference of my head is 21 inches). Since this is a large yarn and a big hook it will stretch.

A smaller width will give a more snug fit.

STOP ON AN EVEN NUMBER OF ROWS.

Your working yarn should be on the opposite end from your starting tail. Cut the working yarn to be about 1 yard long.

Fold the beanie in half with wrong sides together. Sew the edge together. You should end with the working yarn next to your original thread tail. This will be the top of the beanie. Tie the thread tails in a knot.

Stitch through all the raised stitches around the top edge and pull closed. Tie in a secure knot. Weave in the thread tails.

And then add your fur pom pom!

Happy Sewing…and Crochet!